Beyond its pleasant aromas and soothing qualities, a glass of wine holds a special power, the ability to convey a specific place and time, most commonly referred to as terroir, the combination of climate, weather, and soil that give a wine its specific characteristics. It is this terroir that the…
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A pleasant two hour drive from Athens, in the heartland of the Peloponnese, sits a small chapel. Situated on the highest point of Tselepos’ Mantinia vineyard, it pays homage to Saint Tryphon, the patron saint of winemakers. With depictions of biblical references to wine adorning the chapel’s interior, one is reminded…
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Nestled in the Peloponnesian mountainside village of Vastas one will find the small church of Saint Theodora. The road to get there is narrow and windy, testing nerves at every turn. As the GPS indicator inched closer to our destination, anticipation grew. Built in the twelfth century, this church is no ordinary…
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Until now, my only experience with fishing involved a single line baited with clams and a catch barely bigger than goldfish (read last year’s story here). Although my husband and his uncle sometimes head out at night troll fishing for larger fish, the thought of being out at sea in…
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In the early dawns of the 1920s, the boy sat watching attentively as his father skillfully butchered a whole beef. Year after year he handled the knife, running it smoothly between the muscles, along the bone, and through the sinew. It was an art, one that the boy, my grandfather,…
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Our time in Greece is filled with rest and relaxation as well as exploring foods produced in the region, such as artisanal olive oil, florina peppers, and mountain tea. There is a long list of locally produced foods that are difficult, if not impossible, to find in the United States. This…
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Our summer visit to Greece concluded with a one night stay in Athens. When asked by our friends what we wanted to do, the answer was obvious: eat good Greek food! With a city as large as the capital, there is no shortage of options. Knowing our penchant for seafood,…
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If you think the French are the only ones who enjoy snails, think again. Greeks are just as keen on eating the little mollusks. While there are snail farms in Greece, you can forage for them in the wild. There is a field not far from our house with little…
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This past summer’s trip to Greece included a day touring the island of Spetses. Having spent most of my time in Greece on the south-western coast of the Peloponnese, exploring Spetses was a thrill. As soon as you disembark at the port of Dapia, you are struck by the island’s charm.…
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While most of our meals are home cooked, every summer, we make a point of enjoying several dinners at our favorite family owned seaside restaurant, En Plw, pronounced “En Plo”. During the day, Mr. Dakouras, a fisherman, takes his boat out to sea, while his wife, Kiria Tulla and their…